Anything I can do to prevent a stall?

[SurvivorSean]

At the 53 minute mark I'm in control of a freight train where I come up against a yellow approach signal.  I probably had a bit too much break on but I still manage to keep it going at low speed with a bit of a struggle.  

Unfortunately I get a bit impatient and trip the breaker.  After resetting the breaker I try to get going again with little to no avail.  Is there something on the steering wheel engine that I can do to help me either in sanding, extra power, or reduce power if this is a wheel slip issue?  Otherwise is it possible that there is a wheel slip issue here that simply can't be overcome and I'm on a hill where I don't have enough power to continue?

I'll assume there is something I'm doing wrong.  I'm trying to find slip indidators, sand, or something that will allow me to do this properly.

Your help is very much appreciated.  

Thanks

Sean

[Lawliet]

I can't quite see an actual issue. Once you tripped it, you reset the traction motors. It could be because you reset the main switch. That may have bungled things. It could also be there's air still on the line even though it's showing 0%. Try hitting the release on the left console. Green circular button.

[giBBer8]

I'm surprised you didn't start rolling backwards on that grade, perhaps that isn't modelled. If it is, that would suggest your brakes hadn't fully released. 

[Irish Spud]

1 hour ago, giBBer8 said:

I'm surprised you didn't start rolling backwards on that grade, perhaps that isn't modelled. If it is, that would suggest your brakes hadn't fully released. 

Yes it's modelled, the train rolls on gradients 

 

 

[Gazz292]

The EU07 has a few things that should help.

 

First it has a 'Current Setting' switch ... it's one of the 3 rotary switches on the middle of the console, the right most one.

It has 2 positions, normally it's in 'Low Power Mode' this is for normal driving,

But if you turn that switch to 'High Power Mode' then it allows upto 750 amps instead of 600 to the motors in the serial notches ... i.e. the first 28 power settings,  
This is switch is be used to help get a heavy freight train going,
You need to put the switch back to low power mode before moving into the parallel motor notches... notch 29 upwards... if left in high power mode the motors wont switch to parallel and you'll go no faster.

 

Then there's a rotary switch 'Adjust Forces To Wheel Pressure'  i am not sure about that one to be honest,  thought it may be something like traction control in  a car,  you can hear a nice thunk from the electrical room when it's operated, but can't say i've noticed it do anything.

 

There is a green mushroom button to the left of the power wheel called 'Antislipping Brake' 
You press this when the wheels are slipping, and it rapidly applies some braking force to the loco wheels, much faster than the loco brake lever can apply and release the brakes... so it's sort of a manual ABS system.

 

Others have said, if the trains not rolling back down the gradient, then you haven't fully released the brakes,  it takes a while to release all the brakes on a long cargo train, so putting the train brake lever to the fill position can help get them off a little faster (just remember to put the lever back to running, as over time if left in fill it can overcharge the brakes)
There's also the 'Brake Releaser' button you an use to help release the brakes fully... a green mushroom button to the right of the power selector rotary switch.

 

As for sanding... i believe this should be operated with one of the foot controls, but they do not move yet, there is a 'Sanding Breaker' with the other breakers below the flap in the desk that battery switch is in... thats on by default tho.

 

[hyzwar]

32 minuty temu, Gazz292 napisał(a):

The EU07 has a few things that should help.

And this? Is this functional?

 

[Skully]

At 59 the white wheelslip comes on and at 1:01 you see the locomotive move but not the consist. This would indicate consist brakes have not released. Always leave the brake on fill in such a case. After some minutes movement should come back. I still need to read on the workings of Polish brakes, I only know it's not the same as American ones. 😁

Also note that if you've disconnected the main circuit it's best to re-set the reverser, compressor and converter (in that order). There is more complexity involved but that doesn't seem to be modelled (phew 😄).

[Gazz292]

2 hours ago, hyzwar said:

And this? Is this functional?

i believe it is, 
i switch it to freight when i have a freight run, and notice a difference in the way / time it takes for the train brakes come on compared to passenger setting... it could be me imagining it tho.

[SurvivorSean]

Thank you all for the feedback.  I think the next time I may just leave the train let the AI grab it and then try and take over from them 🙂  I have a habbit of hitting the green button to reset the breaker (which of course cuts the power) then just hitting a red button.  For me it always feels like red is bad 🙂

The power setting I did put high for a bit but it didn't help.  I did the one thing with the antislip motor or whatever it's called, but I did not try that antislip breaking idea.  I'll have to keep that in mind next time.

You guys are right about rolling back as I've had that happen before but in this case it did not.  In Run8 for North American engines there is what is called an EOT device that gives you the brake pressure at the end of the train.  Normally I would always wait for that.  Is there such a device in Poland?

Thanks again for all your help.  I figured it was human error.

Sean

[stronzio]

I also think that brakes didn't release fully, they probably were slightly overcharged for some reason and proof is that you can see some air creep in the brake cylinder when you try starting the first time.

Setting the FV4a to "fill" for a short while would probably have solved this, but in general I'd avoid doing it as much as possible because you might overcharge the brake pipe more and end stuck in an "endless loop" where you you need to run in "fill" constantly.  Normally it wouldn't be a biggie, but my impression is that atm the in-game FV4 is a bit "weak" or distributors are a bit too "sensitive", either way it seems to me the game has some troubles managing an overcharged BP on longer trains, so it's too easy to end with stuck brakes

I also noticed that it's very hard to see if the locomotive is slipping or not, I think you can hear the motors going nuts but you're also supposed to see the ammeter(s) indication drop sharply (DC motors do that)

 

3 hours ago, hyzwar said:

And this? Is this functional?

Yes but it seems only for P and G, I don't think that R pos. is simulated atm

I think that 'Adjust Forces To Wheel Pressure' is linked to R setting (and also mistranslated) but I'm not sure, it might have to do with the "two stages" system where a relay gives you two different max BC pressures depending if you're running under or above 50/60 km/h to avoid excessive forces between the cast iron brake threads and the wheel.

 

 

51 minutes ago, SurvivorSean said:

Is there such a device in Poland?

No EOT devices aren't used in europe, our trains are too short for them to be "useful"

Edited December 26, 2022 by stronzio

[SurvivorSean]

I reviewed the video and noticed the white slip light (didn't know that light was for slipping).  Don't know what most of those lights are except the ones where I blow the circuit 🙂

I think I'll be more patient next time and use the fill for a tiny bit.

Thanks

Sean

[Gazz292]

it's fun figuring this train out i think,

i am getting the impression that SimRail will be a very realistic simulation, and we will learn the little quirks and tricks that real drivers of the locomotive use when driving it.

it's deffo a lot more fun that just pushing a lever forwards and having a 2000 ton train take off like it's a a local stopper with just 2 carriages on tow,